Dylan’s back from Salt Lake! We asked him how it went and here’s a little recap in his own words!

The Pad: Where did you go, and what was the event or project?

Dylan Retsek: I competed for Team USA in the first Paraclimbing World Cup of the season in Salt Lake City. This is the WC that we host and the facilities in SLC are world class. The climbing community in SLC is large and stoked, and the opportunities are endless. The event took place at Momentum Fort Union, which is brand new and superb. Teams from all over the world were there, including Japan, Germany, Brazil, Austria, England, Spain, Romania, Israel, Italy, Norway, Slovenia, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Canada. It’s always awesome to see our peers again after a year apart. Impeccable vibe!

TP: What were your goals going into it, and how did those evolve once you got there?

DR: International events are very competitive. My goals going in were layered. First and foremost, I wanted to climb as well as I possibly could. Mentally that means that I’m as prepared as I can be and ready to execute what I know I am capable of. Secondarily, I have firmer goals like making a final, making a podium, etc., but these are contingent on the primary goal of climbing my best, so that’s where my focus is. I’d say I climbed nearly my best on the first qualification route and climbed well physically on the second qualification route but made a costly tactical error. Making a final will have to wait, but overall I’m very happy with my performance and so stoked to keep progressing!

TP: What were the highs? What were the challenges?

DR: A climbing high point was, well, a new high point at an international competition! I scored a 43+ on route one in qualies, which amounted to about two-thirds the way up. I’ve never topped an IFSC route, so I was excited to at least *see* the top (these routes are quite overhanging) from my position. Another high point is just the vibe itself. It’s so fun to be with our time and put it all out there against the rest of the world. Challenges included nerves (though way fewer than in my first WC!), the routes themselves are really hard, and just being mentally and physically locked in for an extended period.

TP: Did anything surprise you—about the experience or about yourself?

DR: I’m extremely competitive, perhaps to a fault. I don’t like losing. So it always surprises me when my reaction to getting my ass kicked is even greater stoke. No pouting, no self-doubt, no excuses or blame game. Just excitement at the possibility of getting better at this thing I love to do so much. The experience itself didn’t hold too many surprises. Now that I’m a grizzled veteran (third WC lol), I kind of know what to expect. Although each year the steepness of the routes is initially confronting, and I think the setters are planning to keep asking us harder and harder questions with each passing comp.

TP: What was something that felt like a breakthrough, even if it didn’t look flashy from the outside?

DR: One breakthrough that would have been hard to spot was that on both qualification routes, I went for a move, missed, and had the strength to hold on and regroup before going for the move again. I think in the past I might’ve fallen in those spots. A second breakthrough was at training camp after the comp. We got the chance to get on the finals routes from the comp. My first go I did ok but fell on a move I thought I could do. I unclipped, regrouped, made a plan and got through that section on my second go. I was proud of this in terms of my mindset and composure on the route.

TP: How did your training at The Pad show up in your performance or mindset?

DR: My training at The Pad showed up in a couple ways. First, Joe, Finn, and the setting crew did a great job on the training route they set for me. These para routes are often very three-dimensional; obviously the AU2 crowd isn’t going to crimp-haul up 30 degree terrain, so the routes have a lot of interesting body positions and decision points. The 11c Joe and Finn set really replicated that feeling well. The other way training at The Pad shines through is in all the support I feel from our Pad Fam. Our small gym in our small town is very tight knit, and I know that all my friends and climbing partners see the work I put in and are behind me no matter how I finish. This unconditional backing lets me give it my all without the added weight of expectations, which is a very productive and healthy way to compete. It makes it solely about the process and being at your best. I really love our community.

TP: What’s something you’d do differently next time?

DR: There’s not much I would differently, honestly. I would like to do even better at the next WC, of course. I’m looking forward to summer and the freedom to train even harder, and I’m planning to spend A LOT of time leading on steep jug hauls on our ropes side. Belay partners wanted!

TP: Any fun stories, mishaps, or “you had to be there” moments?

DR: As for fun stories, what happens in SLC mostly stays in SLC, but I’ll tell you this: the afterparty at The Westerner country bar is always a scene! Picture a hundred paraclimbers from all over the world rocking up to an old school country music club, all dudded up in their finest western wear, drinking whiskey and riding the mechanical bull. It’s quite an image and even better in real life!  

TP: What’s next? Are you resting, recharging, or already chasing the next goal?

DR: What’s next is the second Paraclimbing World Cup of the season in Innsbruck, Austria! It’s only a few weeks away and I’m in full training mode preparing for that event. Innsbruck is one of my favorite places in the world and I’m beyond grateful to have the chance to go back and compete abroad for Team USA!!