I competed for Team USA in the second Paraclimbing World Cup of the season in Innsbruck, Austria. This is the most widely attended WC because of the location and because the Kletterzentrum in Innsbruck (KI as it’s known) is one of the best facilities in the world. Climbing in Austria is extra special because it’s one of their biggest sports, plus the lead wall at KI is iconic.
As in the first WC of the season in Salt Lake City, teams from all over the world were there—Japan, Germany, Brazil, Austria, England, Spain, Romania, Israel, Italy, Norway, Slovenia, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Canada. So many more athletes participate in this one—it’s such an amazing scene!
International events are very competitive. My goals going in were once again layered. First and foremost, I wanted to climb as well as I possibly could. Mentally, that means being prepared and ready to execute what I know I’m capable of. Secondarily, I have firmer goals like making a final, making a podium, etc., but those all depend on the primary goal of climbing my best. That’s where my focus is.
I’d say I climbed well overall and had a strong mental performance. Qualification route two was particularly tough right off the bat, so I’m proud of my composure battling through that starting sequence. The early difficulty surprised me—usually the first few moves are kind of chill, but this one was maybe around v3 with sketchy footing. Happy with my mental game on that one.
A climbing high point was a new personal best: finishing 13th out of 14. This sounds unimpressive, perhaps, but this is the first IFSC comp where I haven’t finished dead last. Just knowing I can battle with even a single other world-class climber is a huge stoke!
Another high point is the environment itself. Innsbruck is an amazing place to put it all out there. The Alps are right there towering above you as you climb. That’s a surreal experience.
Challenges included extreme heat and five hours between qualifying routes for MAU2. Staying mentally and physically locked in under those circumstances was a feat in itself.
The biggest breakthrough this time was my mentality. Very few nerves through tough conditions and daunting routes. As I compete in more World Cups, I can feel my mind getting acclimated to the tension and focus that are required. Accumulated experience is a kind of wonder drug in this regard—the more you know, the more you grow.
My training at The Pad showed up big. After SLC it was clear that my endurance on long overhanging routes needed work, so I found a nice 10+ on our ropes side on the moderately steep wall just before the prow. The holds were great, but its sustained terrain was just what I needed. I did repeaters on top rope, then projected it on lead, eventually getting very comfortable leading it with secure clipping positions and no falls. I think this was huge—finding rests in these comps is an important part of climbing high.
One thing I’d do differently: I wouldn’t try the “tall man discount” where I fell on route one. At 6’4″ I sometimes try to get out of the intended beta, and this time it made the move worse. Rather than matching a jug, I tried to cross overhead to a jug out in space. My hand slipped and I had no feet, so down I went. Just another bit of collected experience where I’ll know better next time.
An amazing story that doesn’t involve me: the battle for gold in my category, MAU2. USA’s Brian Zarzuela and Germany’s Kevin Bartke are neck and neck for first place year after year. This time they were tied after qualies, and tied again on the finals route—which meant it came down to time. Kevin reached their shared high point just seconds before Brian for the gold. The giant crowd was holding its collective breath waiting for the result!
What’s next: World Championships in Seoul, South Korea in September, then the final World Cup of the season in Laval, France in October. Seoul feels like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, but scheduling and finances suggest Laval is my best bet. So this is now the summer of doubled down training and preparation for France.
Hope to see everybody at the gym!
